A small
portfolio of photography by Michael Gordon using a Nikon 5000
Digital Camera, except the clickable photograph at left of the
Nikon 5000 (made using a Nikon 990 by Ladd Darley). It is a very
compact camera, fun to use and produces excellent results. 5
megapixels is only 25 percent more dots-per-inch than the 3.3
megapixel Nikon 990 or 995, but it makes quite a difference
especially if you are making large prints or cropping. At web size,
even very large web size, there is no difference between the 990/995
and Nikon 5000.
All photographs by Michael Gordon. Page and photos copyright 2002 by Michael Gordon. Permission to copy, store, display, reproduce electronically or in print is granted for the purpose of discussion of this camera or discussion of the techniques of photography described herein. Individuals and nonprofit organizations may additionally archive and utilize these images for noncommercial purposes. First publication is Logan, Utah, USA in March, 2002. "Wells Fargo" is a trademark of Wells Fargo & Company. Nikon is a trademark of Nikon USA Inc .
Discussion of NOISE in the Nikon 5000
image sensor
Discussion later -- first, the PHOTOS! Click on the thumbnail to enlarge to standard VGA size (640x480). Click on the enlarged photo to return to this page.
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Logan, Utah, USA.
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Climbing at Arches National Park near Moab, Utah, USA. This is a hand-held shot, a good test of the camera's dynamic range, steadiness, sharpness, and ability to capture subtle shades of reds and browns. |
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Panoramic Photography. Railroad train northwest of Green River, Utah; Book Cliffs in the background. Cropped to a panorama. Normally you would not get much from doing this, but with 5 megapixels to start with, you can crop and still have superb results. |
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Macro photography. The Nikon 5000 has about the same macro capability (about an inch from the front of the lens) as the Nikon 990 and others of the series. Combined with 5 megapixels, the result is amazing! |
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Manual Modes - Flowers. Manual color is almost a requirement for saturated colors, otherwise, the camera will think something is wrong and remove the color. This photograph also uses manual focus since the busy background "captured" the focus and I could not get an automatic focus on the flower. Photographs made using the 1280x960 pixel mode are optimum for viewing for technical reasons discussed elsewhere. |
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Scenic Photography. Probably the specialty of the Nikon 5000 with its somewhat wider angle and higher contrast setting as compared to its predecessors. Images look less "digital" and more natural most of the time. This is a formation on the San Rafael Swell in west central Utah. Very often you will choose to use "BSS" (Best Shot Selector) which takes up to ten photos (while you hold down the shutter release button) then compares them for sharpness and keeps the best. It is unpredictable in the case of moving scenes.
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Architectural Photography . A wide angle lens always displays keystone distortion: That is to say, vertical lines are not vertical, but point to the vertical vanishing point. This is scientifically correct, but people are accustomed to seeing the edges of buildings point straight up. You can correct this afterward by squeezing the bottom of a photo together, or widening the top, to compensate for this phenomenon. Having 5 megapixels to start with means that after you have made your adjustments, you still have 3 or 4 megapixels of excellent quality image remaining. |
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Cityscape Photography. High detail and contrast combined with wide angles lends snap to dramatic cityscape photos. |
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Polarized. Most effective on sky, water and leaves (foliage). The effect is to increase color saturation of objects whose natural colors are hidden by surface reflections (shiny objects) and it darken the blue of the sky (leaving clouds a bright white) under certain circumstances. Here's how it works: The blue light of the sky is actually reflected light and, when viewed at approximately right angles to the incoming sunbeams, is rather strongly polarized (light waves vibrating in one plane). You can diminish this light by blocking it with a polarizing filter. For leaves and pretty much any shiny surface (metal, glass), light that bounces off at approximately 45 degree angle is polarized by the bounce. You can block this with a polarizer, letting the true colors underneath the "shine" become visible. You will need a Nikon UR-E5 step-down-ring-adapter (it's a hollow black cylinder) and a 46 millimeter threaded, rotating, polarizing filter. It is often called a circular polarizer but it does not mean "circular polarization" in the scientific sense, it just means that the polarizer filter is round like a disk. The polarizing material is the same linear polarizing material that has been used for decades. Some interesting facts: The adapter is a cylinder. It screws into a 47 mm threaded ring on the body of the camera and it contains a 46 mm female thread for accessories such as the teleconverters and polarizing filter. When a filter is mounted, it forms a complete shroud around the camera's lens; you can focus and zoom the lens inside this cylinder. Obviously, you can put a clear class or skylight filter on the cylindrical adapter and use it to protect the delicate zoom mechanism from dust and sand while traveling in the desert or at the beach.
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Weather Photography:
The wide-angle lens is superb for sky views. The telephoto end of
the zoom is adequate for most detail views of large cloud
formations. Large expanses of dark sky tend to have noticeable noise
(speckles or granularity). This can often be remedied by separating
out the colors, masking the sky portion of the red channel, blurring
the sky slightly with a gaussian blur, then recombining the red
channel back into the image.
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Discussion
The demo unit on the shelf exhibited some noise in the blue channel and caused me to cautiously delay purchasing a Nikon 5000. I am delighted to say that my unit does not exhibit this problem and I have made about 500 photographs in one week. Alert: On a trip to Sacramento, the problem became conspicuously noticeable when I used a polarizing filter. I concluded that in automatic mode, the camera switched itself to ISO 200 speed/sensitivity where noise is conspicuous in sky photos and further enhanced by the polarizer! Solution is to always use a manual mode and make sure the ISO is 100. Unfortunately, the ISO setting is not persistent and it will sometimes switch to 200 without your notice.
It is very easy to use despite the multitude of switches and menu options. After I had shot about 200 photos I decided to have a look at the book to see what features I had not yet discovered.
The largest print made so far was 7 feet tall for a convention booth. A print one meter (3 feet) high in portrait mode is acceptable from a viewing distance of one meter or more. Large prints reveal noise in the image, so you will want to use your various noise reduction and noise remediation strategies.
Main differences as compared to Nikon 990: